Here is the diff all together with the case open. The shims on
the ring gear side go between the bearing and the ring gear. I
put three thin on pinion, two thin on ring gear then feel it.
It should not bind but you can "feel" it meshing. That
is perfect, with the center diff it will not need further attention.
If you are running two speed, do this and when it clicks, add
a shim to the ring gear side. Eventually they will blow out, but
will work much better until you get a center diff, or new end
diffs and start over. I am so glad to be done with diff issues
and just think about racing..
I use a bit of grease on the ring gear, I don't go crazy just
a bit so it is not bare metal to metal between the pinion and
ring gear.
These are awesome, Dadders.net
again. You use your stock Mammoth axles, and Dadders drills the
adapters to take the pin, then the allen holds it tight. Perfect.
The 23mm rims do not break as the 14 mm rims do. They also never
come loose or fall off ever.
Again, metal to plastic lock tight. I back the screw out a bit,
then put ONE drop, don't go gorilla here, you will screw up your
suspension or anything that is supposed to move. Just a drop,
then run the screw in. "Locked".
This little filler plate makes it so the front to back top deck
fits. It was a tad to thick so I ground it down to be perfect,
then drilled it to take the Dadders.net diff bolts.
Man I love this top deck, it is now bolted and screwed into the
diff, connecting the front to the back, no braces needed.
The progress so far, moving right along, now for radio setup.
I like that carbon fiber steering drag link on the front. Strong
and light. I used the aluminum C hubs and camber links, as I have
pulled the plastic one's out in a wreck. DNF is a DRAG.
The front steering and suspension, I also make sure the steering
is perfectly loose, no binding at all.
|
