I have never used them before, but this time I used the rubber grommets to mount the servos.

Mugen Clutch bell, a bit pricey, but very quality, and the OFNA CB shim kit has everything you could ever need to shim the back and front of the CB and the shoes as needed.

This is basic to me as I learned to race on 1/10 electric truck and buggys, but some don't know it. Do NOT over tighten your top shock nuts, they will bind the suspension. I put a drop of locktight on the NUT only, then run the nut up and stop 1/16 in. away from the shock it's self. The nylon nut with lock tight prevents them from backing off without gorilla tight shock binding. Make SURE you get NO locktight on the moving parts that would bind the suspension.

The motor mounts must be hogged out to the middle to allow the smaller CB to get close enough to the center diff. I am running a 13/61 or 14/61 depending on the track.

Motor mounts installed.

Receiver battery pack health is very important. NiM batterys DO develop memory, ask any electric racer that races sportsman or expert or pro class. They all discharge the packs. I use a two bulb discharger that I made, very simple, and drain them until the bulbs are dead. Then I let it sit for an hour, and charge it at 1 amp. If you are in a hurry you can charge at 2 amps, but low amps = greater run time, high amps = greater punch. I don't need punch in my receiver packs, I need run time to make the 30-40 min mains at big races.

Discharging..

I had to take off the corner of the diff mount, so the flywheel would clear it.

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