The Mammoth has several places still that are screws to plastic. To lock tight these I use C.A. Glue on the hole, then run the screw in. Works very well and they have not backed out on me since I started this practice.

The suspension A arms fit a bit to tight, so they are not Loose and free. I take just a tad off the arms on each side with my grinder to make them flop free like this little movie shows
( movie 1 ) ( movie 2 )

Dadders.net to the rescue again. No more sheet metal screws in plastic holding my diffs on to the chassis. Now they are bolted from the bottom to the top and nuts are on the top. The larger heads to not pull through the plastic on the bumpers any longer either.. Everything must be drilled to the proper size to accept the bolts, when you buy the kit from Dadders.net the drill bit comes with the kit last time I checked. This is a cheap and very awesome upgrade for all Mammoths on the planet.

This is the bottom of the bumper, the bolts have a larger diameter and will NOT pull through like the screws will if you tighten up to much.

Here are the bolts, from the bottom all the way through the top.

Is that a fantastic thing or what? Be careful, you can tighten them WAY to much with not to much effort and smash the diff case.

This is my center line drive shaft drive cup. It comes from a Savage and NEVER breaks, and wears longer than the stock Mammoth drive cup. They are awesome, this is one of Gill's tricks he showed me. Gill is theManager of Hobby People Escondido, and fellow XTM racer.

The worn diff cup you are looking at has had over two gallons of racing done on it and has just a little groove to show for it all. Not bad, it is now my backup..

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