I used the Associated GT flywheel, and the RRP 15 and 14 Clutch
Bell, and as I have said, the Losi 51 spur, and MIP Clutch
Here is a shot of the MIP 4 in 1 two shoe clutch shoes for the
RC10GT. I had to angle the engine just a tad to make the CB miss
the brake disk. After I race this setup and find it is worthy
I will post how I did that... I have run 3 tanks through it like
it is and so far so good. I can now gear 14/51 and 15/51 for tight
or open tracks...
This mesh picture is AFTER 1/2 gallon of racing. It showes no
wear, my fix works and the mesh stayed perfect, now for the strange
part.
As you can see, the engine is at an angle, I had to do this so
the flywheel would miss the brake disk, and it works. Now, before
you go and do all this, it is much work and many parts, I have
am tracking how others are using the stock XTM 15t CB and letting
it wear in then readjusting it as it does. So far so good for
them, it is working. I just wanted a proper mesh. It does look
however like the XTM CB is going to work for them, when I get
a good pic of the mesh on one of those trucks I will put it here,
but Valve on the X-C forum says his is doing perfectly.
It looks funky but works, I have raced it and practiced much,
no wear, no slipping, no issues. I love the MIP clutch and tuning
it offers me as a racer. If you look at this picture close you
can see the brake disk and the flywheel were just slightly hitting,
and have now made room, both are now running free and I have full
brake pad stopping power still.
I was running in a race at Revelation Raceway, I had TQ that night
in expert nitro truck, and in the main had SUCH a fun race going
with a kid and his Adam Drake II the main event sheet for that
race with lap times etc is HERE.
My race ended when without a crash, the ball cup behind the engine
on the camber link popped off. I was SO mad, after the race the
first place kid and his dad came to talk to me, they wanted to
know what the heck truck and engine I had. They also told me in
long races, the ball cup gets hot behind the engine and pops.
They had teh same thing happen to them. The parts above are the
fix to that problem. Captured Eye Camber link on the shock tower.
Is that simple and cool or what? I did both sides on the shock
tower and I used the center hole, the outside just does not have
enough meat and breaks very easy.
I used bolts, lock nut, and very important is the washer that
is LARGER than the eye hole so it can not pop off no matter what.
I left all the other ball cups RPM long shank so my truck will
not be destroyed in a horrible crash, AND they will not pop off
for little or no reason.
As you can see, the outside hole is close to the edge, I have
broken that previously. The nuts hold the top of the battery box
up, so a slight mod is needed.
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