I used these aluminum front brace supports from XTM. The main
reason is with metal parts I can use locktight. So the two screws
in the bottom and the one in the top will not vibrate loose with
the high frequency vibration that is common in nitro vehicles.
When I put a new aluminum or hop up part on, I put the good plastic
part in the bag the aluminum one came in and staple it again.
That way I do not end up with a mess of parts in a box that get
lost or can not be found when needed. Then I keep all the parts
of each vehicle I own together for fast retrieval when needed.
I use a toolbox just for parts, no tools in it, just parts for
all my trucks organized so each truck is in a different part of
the box.
I used the front aluminum block from XTM and again more for the
locktight than anything else. It is good to know it will not break
also, AND the screws that attach to it all around are lock tight
safe.
See the pink on the shock near the shock preload adjustment? I
use fingernail polish as locktight on them, to keep them from
vibrating and changing. Plastic does not like locktight so this
works well, but they can still be moved if needed. I purchased
the Associated Rear Spring set for the T4/B4. I found the stock
springs are the same or very close to the silver associated but
not as firm as the blue associated. I think they are good for
the nitro truck, I will use the green on the back of my electric
X-C and the silver on the front of my electric X-C. Also it seems
the pistons have smaller holes in them on this truck than my old
T4, so the lighter 10wt fluid feels more like 30 or so on the
Associated truck. I am happy with the handling so far of the fluid
and springs and am not changing them yet.
Aluminum XTM rear arms. Locktight on the screws, and they will
not break. The right rear arm breaks easy on this truck. I would
rather have the tiny bit of extra weight on the truck than a broken
arm DNF.
The aluminum arms installed. This truck is getting very race worthy
now, and the chances f a DNF are diminishing rapidly. I like the
way the battery box holds the pins for the arms in, no clips to
lose.
The battery box installed again, holding the rear arm pins in,
and as you see I installed an inline fuel filter, and routed it
around the pressure line to keep it from hitting anything metal
and causing interference with the radio.
This is the route I took to make the gearing change for racing.
In the upper right of the picture above you can see the Losi Kevlar
51t spur gear. It is a direct bolt on, even the slipper pads fit
it perfectly with no modifications needed. I then used the RRP
15 CB and a MIP 4 in 1 clutch. Forget the other stuff in the picture,
that did not work out.
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