These are very light, very strong and great fit.
This is the rear aluminum hub, again very strong, light and a
perfect fit. The stock rear hubs must be replaced, they are truly
a weak point and will end many fun sessions if you leave the plastic
stockers on the truck.
Now for a race legal .12 engine. This is a picture of the new
SH .12 next to my XTM 24.7 pro. Looks like Papa bear and Baby
bear eh? I thought it was funny, how much they look alike.
I choose the SH .12 for a few reasons. One is the price. It was
on sale at Hobby
People for 99 bucks. That is an awesome deal. Another reason
is, the gearing of the X-Cellerator is very tall, this engine
is a "torque" engine, so I should be able to use the
stock gearing for now with this engine. The final reason is it
bolts in directly with NO needed modifications or pipe at all.
Everything fits, clutch bell, header, pipe, motor mounts, everything.
The ONLY thing I changed was on the servo arm, I went to the outside
hole instead of the middle hole. That is it. This engine has no
pull start, so I use a 1/10 starter box, and it fired up instantly,
the carb settings were perfect for a blubbery rich break in. I
heat cycle my engine's to break them in. On this engine I started
it up using Blue Thunder 20%. I only use that fuel for break in,
it has 18% oil in it. I get the engine up to 140 or so degrees
and shut it down, put the piston at BDC (bottom dead center) and
let it cool completely. I do that 3 more times. Then I take the
engine up to 200 or so degrees blipping around my backyard Mini-T
track. Then let it cool to room temperature again. I do that 4
times, then start leaning it out little by little for power, letting
it cool every time to completely cool. It was a breeze to break
in this engine and it is making good power. I have not had it
on the track, yet, when I do i will report on it's performance.
This is the rear view of the SH .12 installed. My truck lost some
weight with no pull start. The SH .12 bolts straight in. I loved
the XTM .18 engine. It was very powerful and very fast, but i
hated that pull start dangling around and under my truck.
I replaced the stock turnbuckles with these Associated Titanium
for a T4 and RPM long shank ball cups. I did this to prevent a
DNF from ball pop death. I also used them for the fact that more
threds are inside the shank this way. As you can see, the stock
unit, the ready titanium unit and the bare titanium unit showing
how much of the threds are inside the ball cup.
This is a shot of the stock ball cup and the RPM long shank ball
cup. As you can see, the RPM cup closes more and has more material
around the area it pops on and off. Popped ball cups are the number
one thing I see ending races, or causing a repair pitstop. The
RPM's are much harder to pop off and will survive a crash without
poping many times. When you setup your truck, do NOT pop them
on until you are sure you do not have to pop them off again for
any reason. Every time you pop one off, you loosen it and make
it that much more likely to pop off in a race.
RPM Ball Cups installed with Titanium Turnbuckles. Solid....
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