Now, with your truck on a stand, or as you can see, I use a basket
from Wal-Mart, cheap and effective stand, grab the right rear
tire like so.
Now with your same right hand, reach over and grab the spur gear.
You have to hold the rear tire AND the spur gear on the right
side at the same time to keep them from spinning. NOW, with your
left hand ( no picture because I ran out of hands ) grab the left
tire and turn it slowly in a forward rotation. Watch your dot
on the slipper clutch as you do this. If you can turn the left
tire and the dot is not moving, that means your diff is slipping
and that is BAD. My truck came out of the box with the slipper
adjusted to tight, so now hold just the spur gear and back out
the nut on the slipper tension spring until when you turn the
left wheel, holding the right wheel and spur, the slipper turns
and the dot rotates. Now very slowly tighten the nut 1/8 turn
at a time until it gets stiff to turn the left wheel, but the
dot still rotates. Get it as tight as you can, so the diff does
not slip, but the slipper does, and you are done. Now if you land
ON power off a jump, the slipper will slip and save the tranny
gears and diff from being stripped or destroyed.
Ride height is adjusted with the threaded shocks preload adjustment.
Make it so both sides are the same, and the drive shafts are level,
NOT the arms. The arms will be a tick below level. This is for
racing. For bashing, it is sometimes good to have it a bit higher
for ground clearance. Then put it back down for race day. As I
said, the springs are a bit to stiff, when I find the right springs,
I will post them here... The shocks rock, so far as I can see
they are going to work out fine. I will put 35 wt oil in the shocks
all around and go from there tuning...
Ride height front is arms level again. I made it just a tick high
to compensate for the stiff springs and put more traction in the
back. It worked ok, but I could not hang with the fastest guys,
not until I find the right spring combo. What happens is the stiff
springs let the tires in the rear bounce, when that happens in
a turn, you spin out. So I had to take a tick of speed off in
the turns thus my lap times suffered a bit. I will get it right
and post it here.
I use just a tiny bit of toe in for the front. That means the
front wheels are pigeon toed to the center a tiny bit. That makes
it more stable at top speed. If you make it have zero toe in,
it will turn on a dime, but be a little sketchy at top speed and
hard to control.
Now I adjust the camber, i do not have a fancy camber gage, so
I use a square, and as you see here this is TO much negative camber.
I want about 1 degree negative camber. That means the tire will
lean in to the truck, with the battery installed and the arms
adjusted to proper ride height. I want it to lean in about 1/8
inch.
This looks good for the front. About 1/8 inch from the square
at the top of the wheel as it just touches the bottom of the wheel.
I use the same for the rear, 1/8 inch or about 1 degree sitting
with battery in, at proper ride height.
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