
Step one, just look at it. This has got to be the coolest ready
to run body I have ever seen.

Step one for real is adjust your ride height. The springs are
to stiff for racing, but I have not found the springs I need yet.
The arms should be perfectly level, but with the stiffer springs,
I wanted just a tad more weight on the rear for traction, since
it is going to bounce a bit due to the stiff springs, so I raised
the front. It worked, reasonably well. I was turning 30 second
laps when the fastest Experts at So Cal were turning 28's. I will
get there, lets keep moving.

Ditch the Taymia plugs and go with Deans
Connectors. Far less resistance and less heat. Today's high
end battery's can literally weld the stock plugs together with
heat, and you will lose power in the resistance they produce.

The stock radio being a HiTech Aggressor is one of the best ready
to run radios I have ever seen, but my Airtronics radio is better
and has more adjustability. I also use one radio for all my racers,
so that is also a plus. This is the mounted receiver, double sided
tape is used to stick it to the chassis. I also love the antenna
holder, very nice touch with no hole in the bottom of the chassis
to have to work a wire through.

Next is the motor. The stocker is fun for bashing about, but to
race I need a real motor. I used the Monster Stock Motor and as
you see, soldered it directly to the ESC. I clean my commutator
every run, and re-oil the bushings, and I turn the comm on my
comm lathe every 4 runs, I put new brushes on it every 8 runs,
or before a race I turn the comm and put new brushes. That gets
me through two qualifiers and the main with good power.

I have also ditched the bullet plugs on the way to the motor.
Then I use shrink tubing on each wire, then here I have them both
held together just to keep them from flopping around. I like this
ESC very much. Works well, easy to set up, and has a "reverse
lock out" function for racing as you are not allowed to use
reverse.
I have a personal transponder so I don't have to use the club
transponders. I hold it to the top of the servo with velcro.
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