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I made promotional video's for XTM to use at RCX 2005. Part of the deal was I got to keep every vehicle I made a video of. I was instantly amazed at the quality and performance of the
X-Cellerator Electric
so I sold my T4 on ebay and decided to race only the X-Cellerator at So Cal RC Raceway and the other tracks I visit. The X-Cellerator did have one drawback, in that there were no pro's running it posting setup sheets on the website. So I am now going to take the X-Cellerator and make it a racer the best I can and post what I did to do so.

If you own an X-Cellerator, the first thing you need is this forum, it is an awesome resource with great people that have helped me many times. XTM provides a forum like this for every car and truck they make, all other manufacturers should take note and do the same.
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewforum.php?f=9

Time to get to work on Project,
Electric X-Cellerator Racer

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Electric X-Cellerator
Step one, just look at it. This has got to be the coolest ready to run body I have ever seen.

Arms Level
Step one for real is adjust your ride height. The springs are to stiff for racing, but I have not found the springs I need yet. The arms should be perfectly level, but with the stiffer springs, I wanted just a tad more weight on the rear for traction, since it is going to bounce a bit due to the stiff springs, so I raised the front. It worked, reasonably well. I was turning 30 second laps when the fastest Experts at So Cal were turning 28's. I will get there, lets keep moving.

Deans Connectors
Ditch the Taymia plugs and go with Deans Connectors. Far less resistance and less heat. Today's high end battery's can literally weld the stock plugs together with heat, and you will lose power in the resistance they produce.

Airtronics Reciever
The stock radio being a HiTech Aggressor is one of the best ready to run radios I have ever seen, but my Airtronics radio is better and has more adjustability. I also use one radio for all my racers, so that is also a plus. This is the mounted receiver, double sided tape is used to stick it to the chassis. I also love the antenna holder, very nice touch with no hole in the bottom of the chassis to have to work a wire through.

Motor
Next is the motor. The stocker is fun for bashing about, but to race I need a real motor. I used the Monster Stock Motor and as you see, soldered it directly to the ESC. I clean my commutator every run, and re-oil the bushings, and I turn the comm on my comm lathe every 4 runs, I put new brushes on it every 8 runs, or before a race I turn the comm and put new brushes. That gets me through two qualifiers and the main with good power.

No Bullet plugs
I have also ditched the bullet plugs on the way to the motor. Then I use shrink tubing on each wire, then here I have them both held together just to keep them from flopping around. I like this ESC very much. Works well, easy to set up, and has a "reverse lock out" function for racing as you are not allowed to use reverse.

Velcro for Transponder
I have a personal transponder so I don't have to use the club transponders. I hold it to the top of the servo with velcro.

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